Startup Procedure
The startup process — the first 28 days after your pool is filled — is the most critical period for any plaster finish. During this time, the plaster cures, hardens, and reaches its final chemistry. How you manage this window directly determines the longevity and appearance of your surface.
Begin filling immediately after plastering
Start filling the pool within 1–2 hours of the final trowel pass. Do not allow the fresh plaster to dry or partially cure before water contact. Fill continuously — do not stop and restart the fill. Place the hose in the deep end and move it frequently to prevent staining from the hose minerals concentrating in one spot.
Initial chemical treatment
Once the pool is filled, add 2 lbs of granular citric acid per 10,000 gallons, broadcast across the surface. Do not add chlorine, algaecide, or any other chemicals in the first 24 hours. Begin brushing the entire pool surface twice daily with a white nylon brush (never a metal brush on fresh plaster).
Balancing phase
Test water chemistry daily. Begin adjusting pH, alkalinity, and calcium hardness slowly — never add large doses at once. Start with alkalinity adjustment first, then pH, then calcium. Do not add chlorine above 1.0 ppm during this window. Continue brushing twice daily. White plaster dust is normal and will brush off.
Curing phase
Increase chlorine to normal operating levels (1.0–3.0 ppm). Continue brushing once daily for the full 28-day curing period. Avoid running pool heaters above 90°F during this period. Saltwater systems: do not turn on the salt cell until day 14. Run the circulation pump 24 hours per day for the first 28 days.
Normal operation
After 28 days, your plaster is fully cured. You can now operate all pool equipment normally, including heaters, salt systems, and automatic cleaners. Switch to a weekly maintenance brush schedule. Test chemistry weekly and maintain within the ranges below.
Chemical Balance Targets
Balanced water chemistry is the single most important factor in plaster longevity. Water that is too acidic etches and roughens the surface. Water that is too alkaline causes scale buildup and discoloration. Test your water at least once per week — twice per week in summer.
| Parameter | Acceptable Range | Ideal Target | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|
| Free Chlorine | 1.0 – 3.0 ppm | 2.0 – 2.5 ppm | Test daily in summer; shock only at night |
| pH | 7.2 – 7.8 | 7.4 – 7.6 | Most critical parameter for plaster life |
| Total Alkalinity | 80 – 120 ppm | 90 – 110 ppm | Adjust before pH; buffer against pH swings |
| Calcium Hardness | 200 – 400 ppm | 250 – 350 ppm | Low calcium causes plaster to leach calcium — etching |
| Cyanuric Acid (CYA) | 30 – 80 ppm | 40 – 60 ppm | Stabilizer for outdoor pools; drain if above 100 ppm |
| Total Dissolved Solids | < 3,000 ppm | < 2,000 ppm | Drain partially if elevated; saltwater pools higher |
| Salt (saltwater pools) | 2,700 – 3,500 ppm | 3,200 ppm | Per manufacturer spec; too high accelerates surface wear |
| Phosphates | < 200 ppb | < 100 ppb | Fuel for algae; treat with phosphate remover if elevated |
Shocking the pool
When you need to shock, use calcium hypochlorite (granular) or liquid chlorine only. Do not use dichlor or trichlor shock, which add CYA and lower pH. Always shock at dusk or night — never in direct sunlight. Pre-dissolve granular shock in a bucket of pool water before adding. Do not let shock granules sit on the plaster surface.
Saltwater pool considerations
Salt cells are highly effective but require careful management. Do not turn on the salt cell until day 14 after a new plaster installation. Keep salt levels at the lower end of the manufacturer's range — high salt concentrations accelerate surface erosion over time. Check cell output monthly and have your cell inspected annually. Maintain calcium hardness on the higher end of the range (300–350 ppm) for saltwater pools to compensate for the lower pH environment salt systems create.
Brushing Schedule
Brushing is not optional — it is the primary maintenance action that prevents algae, removes calcium deposits before they bond, and keeps the surface smooth. Always use a white nylon brush on plaster and aggregate finishes. Never use a stainless steel brush on plaster surfaces.
- Brush twice daily — morning and evening
- Use white nylon pool brush
- Cover entire pool surface: walls, floor, and steps
- Start at the shallow end and work toward the deep end
- Brush once weekly minimum
- Twice weekly recommended in summer
- Pay special attention to steps and corners
- Brush after shocking or adding calcium
- Weekly brushing minimum
- Monthly deep brush of all surfaces
- Inspect steps and ledges for calcium buildup
- Use a pumice stone on stubborn calcium at the waterline
Ongoing Maintenance Schedule
Daily (during swim season)
- Empty skimmer baskets
- Check and maintain water level — keep at middle of skimmer
- Verify circulation pump is operating
- Note any unusual water color or clarity changes
Weekly
- Test chlorine, pH, and alkalinity
- Adjust chemistry to target ranges
- Brush pool walls, floor, and steps
- Vacuum or run automatic cleaner
- Clean pump strainer basket
- Skim surface debris
- Backwash filter if pressure rises 8–10 psi above clean baseline
Monthly
- Full chemistry panel including calcium hardness, CYA, and TDS
- Clean filter media thoroughly (backwash or acid wash cartridge)
- Inspect all fittings, o-rings, and equipment for leaks
- Test salt cell output (saltwater pools)
- Check waterline tile for scale and clean if needed
- Inspect plaster surface for any etching, staining, or rough spots
Annually (before opening each season)
- Complete professional water chemistry analysis
- Inspect all plumbing and equipment
- Clean salt cell with acid wash (saltwater pools)
- Lubricate all valve o-rings and gaskets
- Check and calibrate automation systems if equipped
- Professional inspection of plaster surface condition
Winterizing (if closing seasonally)
Sacramento pools typically run year-round, but if you close your pool seasonally:
- Bring chemistry to ideal levels before closing
- Add a winter algaecide and enzyme treatment
- Lower water level below skimmer and returns
- Blow out and plug all lines
- Add a winter cover — do not leave a plaster pool empty in freezing conditions
Common Issues & Solutions
White plaster dust (first 28 days)
Normal. New plaster releases calcium hydroxide as it cures. This appears as white cloudy water or white dust on the pool floor. Brush it off the surface and run the filter continuously. It will stop within 2–4 weeks.
Calcium scaling at the waterline
Typically caused by high calcium hardness or high pH. Use a pumice stone (wet only — never dry) to remove scale deposits at the waterline. For heavy scaling, a diluted muriatic acid solution applied carefully and rinsed immediately is effective. Keep pH below 7.8 to prevent future scaling.
Rough or etched surface texture
Usually caused by low pH (below 7.0) or low calcium hardness (below 200 ppm). Aggressive, acidic water dissolves the calcium in plaster, leaving a pitted, rough surface. Correct the chemistry immediately. If etching has already occurred, contact us — in some cases, a light acid wash can restore the surface.
Brown or orange staining
Usually iron or manganese from source water. Test for metals when filling from a well or new municipal connection. Use a metal sequestrant if metals are detected. A localized stain can often be treated with ascorbic acid (Vitamin C) applied directly to the stain with the pump off.
Green algae growth
Caused by insufficient chlorine, high phosphates, or poor circulation. Brush the entire pool, shock with liquid chlorine or calcium hypochlorite (not trichlor), and run the filter 24 hours continuously. Test for phosphates and treat if above 200 ppb. Algae that has set into rough plaster texture may require a professional acid wash.
Black algae
Black algae embeds itself into the plaster surface and is extremely difficult to remove. It requires aggressive physical brushing with a steel brush (not on white plaster), targeted application of concentrated trichlor tabs directly on the spots, and sustained high chlorine levels. Prevention is far better than treatment — maintain consistent chlorine levels and brush weekly.
Warranty Information
Phenomenal Pool & Landscape provides tiered warranty coverage on all plaster finishes. Warranty coverage is contingent on maintaining proper water chemistry and following the startup and maintenance procedures outlined in this guide. Keep records of your water chemistry tests and any chemical additions made — these records may be required to process a warranty claim.
What is covered
- Delamination or debonding of the plaster from the shell
- Structural cracking caused by workmanship or material defects
- Premature surface deterioration under normal water chemistry conditions
- Significant color variation beyond normal curing in aggregate finishes
What is not covered
- Staining from improper water chemistry, metals, or organic material
- Etching caused by low pH (<7.2 sustained), high chlorine (>5.0 ppm sustained), or chemical additions directly to the surface
- Scale buildup from high calcium or alkalinity
- Damage from improper use of automatic cleaners during the startup period
- Normal efflorescence (white calcium deposits) during the first 6 months
- Damage from draining the pool completely
- Algae staining or damage from algae embedded in the surface